Bespoke (part six) ...making it to a hanger!

Even if the most progress was not achieved today, it sure looks and feels like it. Went from two pieces of fabric lying on a table, with all the previous blogs involved, please don't remind me of all the hand stitches, (there are many more to come), to something i can try on, and if sleeveless suit coats were the fashion, we would almost be done!!!

ah, and the Bemberg makes its first appearance! I think the hand stitches come next!

And the Italian Linen.

just a little side note..... don't worry, all this bespoke-ness has not delayed the fall/winter collection,

it's building!

Bespoke (part five) Pad Stitching

This step in the construction was definitely a rollercoaster ride. Years ago someone asked me if i would ever make a suit, without any hesitation, i replied, "no." A year passed and i stumbled into a shop in Chicago, where on a male dress form, deconstructed was the interior of a bespoke suit.

 From that point on it has been a direction for me to

head! The details and handstitches, were  a work of art, never even to be seen by the one to wear the suit.

So here it is, pad stitching, well the first attempt at it at least. This stitch, (done by hand) attaches the canvas to the wool, also giving enough roll, to keep the lapel against your chest while worn.

ahhh...... taking shape

Then cotton twill tape, around the perimeter, and roll line, (by hand of course)

The only machine turned on this day was an Iron. 

still hangin' in there though!

TTENDEN

Bespoke (part four) .....POCKETS!

....well, don't mind me, i've just been sewing pockets for some time now! As you see, the pockets flaps are wonderfully bound

never thought 1/16 of an inch could mean so much to me!

 and all these interior details, will only have been seen by me. Now there is a pocket! Bound flap, hand stitched bemberg rayon, prongs, hand whip stitch, hand running stitch, press, breathe!

Shall we count the hours it took to get here? Next step... hand pad stitching!

ttenden