21 June 2011

Bespoke (part three) Cutting Fabric

Well, after measuring, dotting, connecting dots, all on paper, we got to the muslin, a very thin coat, that would represent the, soon? to be, Italian wool, Bespoke Suit. But then..... took that muslin, ripped it apart, all for the change of a quarter inch here...... and an inch there. Wow this is getting good!



and then..... back to paper. This time, a stiff tagboard, to be used for many of my suits to come. Then we laid out the two different fabrics, (only time i've seen nicer fabric than this was when a friend (thank you Mary) took me to a tiny fabric shop in Livorno, Italy, where the employee, wearing a suit of course, gave me a tour. Then picked up some Italian fashion magazine, flipped to a page, then showed me to the fabric that the designer had purchased at his shop. Yes, that was quite an experience. I must admit, it was a little nerve wracking, when the first thing we did was slice into it, and ripped out a thread that ran the whole width, to get the true grain, then chalked it up, and poked it with pins. But when we pulled out a dragon to use as one of the weights,  my Year of the Dragon, rested me assured.


and having this as a prologue to our 1972 copyrighted Master Designer textbook helped too.


So here we are, probably 500 hand stitches into it. The real deal.

15 June 2011

Bespoke (part two) MUSLIN


....well after taking the magical number of 18.5, and dividing it into 1/2, 1/3, 1/6,1/8's and so on and so on, and connecting the dots in a very mathematical way, then cutting out 6 different pieces of fabric, the three dimensional comes to life! Look out Mr. Martin! Ok, not quite! Also if it was this stressful cutting into $1.50 a yard cotton muslin, I might need assistance when it comes to the Italian wool, and linen.


keep your eyes open.
T T E N D E N